Inside One Brooklyn Restaurant’s Desperate Fight to Survive the Pandemic
On the second Saturday in March, the owners of Gertie, a Jewish-American luncheonette in Brooklyn, finalized a last step in the makeover of their year-old restaurant. They hired a new sous chef, an up-and-comer who had landed hours before on a one-way flight from Detroit. By dinnertime, though, the restaurant was unraveling. After spreading silently…