How to Think About Wine Vintages

Recently I took part in a brief exploration of the Northern California vintage of 2011, a year that was widely regarded at the time as the worst in recent memory for cabernet sauvignon. James Laube, a columnist for Wine Spectator magazine, called it “the most damning vintage in perhaps 15 years.” Yet the six wines…

The Love Language of Butter

LONDON — Around Valentine’s Day, I raise my glass particularly high to any couple who managed to save up any top chat for a romantic dinner for two. What on earth is there to talk about when you haven’t been anywhere or done anything for a very long time? In the absence of such discussion,…

How a Queens Shaobing Stall Survives a Pandemic

As several restaurants in Flushing, Queens, one of the largest Chinatowns in New York City, shut down amid the pandemic, Yukun Shaobing quietly opened inside a nondescript mini-mall last September — a seemingly inauspicious start. Still, the cramped food stall of about 100 square feet, with no English-language name or advertising, has become a hit…

Same Name, New Thrilling Results

Falansai’s seafood curry soup is one of the wonders of the pandemic-restaurant era. The broth begins with peanut milk and a head-filling red curry instead of the usual coconut milk and green curry. It is intensified by lobster stock and mussel broth. The bowl is filled with good, fresh East Coast mussels and squid —…

Say It With Carbonara

Hello and welcome to Five Weeknight Dishes, though really my thoughts are with dessert today, chocolate desserts in particular. Sunday is Valentine’s Day, and while I have zero plans to cook an elaborate dinner, and might even order takeout, I will grab this moment to make something obscenely chocolaty. The current contenders: chocolate lava cake,…

Pizza Was the Restaurant Hero of 2020

A few times a week, Elizabeth Reninger ambles to a pizza restaurant near her job for lunch. She orders the same thing every time: a cheese slice and fries for $6. For a little adventure, she sprinkles on some Parmesan and red pepper flakes. Before the coronavirus pandemic swept across the country, Ms. Reninger, a…

Our 17 Coziest Vegetarian Soups

For dreary days and weary souls, there is soup. Whether you’re stirred by brothy or blended varieties, those that lean creamy and rich or light and verdant, the perfect soup is out there for you. Find your match in at least one of the vegetarian recipes below. Sue Li describes this brothy number as “the…