It still took a few weeks before I wrote any reviews. At first, I worried that any opinion of mine would be unfair when restaurants were trying so hard to adapt to the new reality. Eventually, I understood that that was exactly what would make the reviews worth writing. Good food in a pandemic was…
When Natalia Pereira was a girl in Minas Gerais, Brazil, her mother, Francisca, gave her a few bricks and some empty, washed-out sardine cans to build herself a toy kitchen. Pereira loved it. She played by cooking rice and beans over hot coals, while her mother worked at the wood stove, simmering meat and bones…
Lady M, the chain of sleek bakeries known for its multilayered cakes made of crepes, has added candies to its inventory. They’re tiny bites of gummies and chocolates nestled in oblong boxes. Among the 16 varieties created by Olivia Niddam, a French confectioner, and the company’s chief executive Ken Romaniszyn, are mixed wild berry, banana-marshmallow,…
This new ice cream from McConnell’s in Santa Barbara, Calif., is especially craveable. It’s creamy, thickly veined with molten praline, lightly accented with mellow Garrison Brothers Texas bourbon and studded with salt-roasted caramelized pecans. Give it the affogato treatment with a splash of the bourbon. McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams Garrison Brothers Whiskey and Pecan Pralines,…
Crisp, rectangular fonio chips, made from a West African heirloom grain, are the latest from Yolélé, a Brooklyn company that makes and sells African foods. There are four iterations: Afro-Funk, made with dawadawa (fermented locust beans) and ginger, are moderately spicy; Greens!, made with moringa and baobab, are tart; ruddy Yassa!, flavored with chile, onion…
These days, a number of virtual cooking classes for children and families are taking a global approach. A new course, Noodle Passport, designed by the caterer Great Performances and the nonprofit Sylvia Center, an educational facility based in the Bronx and the Hudson Valley, consists of six hourlong interactive lessons. They cover noodle dishes from…
The making of the Grey, a Savannah, Ga., restaurant in an Art Deco former Greyhound bus terminal, is a tale worth telling. And the two partners — Mashama Bailey, a chef from New York (though she spent some of her childhood in Savannah) who once cooked at Prune, and John O. Morisano, an entrepreneur from…
Opening Smillie Pizza by Il Buco Alimentari This restaurant-within-a-restaurant takes advantage of the popularity of the pizzas that the chef, Justin Smillie, has been making at Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria. Available only for takeout and delivery, there are seven varieties, including the traditional margherita, and the more inventive cacio e pepe; kale and anchovy;…
Joy Cho was shopping with her mother in a Williams Sonoma store when a display of miniature Bundt pans caught her eye. A pastry cook at Gramercy Tavern until the pandemic came, she bought them. This was early January. The next day, she began composing a sour-cream batter recipe and experimenting with glazes flavored with…
Wines from outside Europe are often called New World wines. Penfolds, one of Australia’s premier wineries, is doubling down on being New World with its new California Collection, half of which consists of blends of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz (syrah) from California and Australia. Penfolds has been interested in California since the 1980s, and after…