Sours That Walk the Line

The three-piece suit of the cocktail set, the sour formula is simple and timeless: spirit, citrus and sweetener. Sometimes, though not always, an egg white is added. One of the “children of punch,” according to the cocktail writer and historian David Wondrich, the sour is infinitely adaptable, yielding countless variations — whether whiskey sour, daiquiri…

A Stew That Captures the Essence of the Sea

Daniela Narcisco, a Brazilian cookbook author and food historian based in Florianópolis, the capital of Santa Catarina, Brazil, describes moqueca as “a wonderful addition to any Easter celebration.” And this seafood stew, built on a few simple yet deeply flavorful ingredients, is pleasing: Its vibrant broth is luscious and light, and evokes the essence of…

Unexpected Dinner Inspiration

A year into this pandemic, I’m taking dinner ideas wherever they come. Last week, my daughter and I read “Bread and Jam for Frances,” the 1964 picture book about a little badger who doesn’t want to eat any of the food her mother cooks (soft-boiled eggs, toast and fresh orange juice for breakfast; breaded veal…

How to Make Ham

Ham of the smoked, wet-cured variety is surprisingly easy to make at home, but you’ll need time, refrigerator space and one special ingredient: pink curing salt. Also known as Prague powder #1 (named for where it was originally developed), it contains 6.25 percent sodium nitrite, a naturally occurring compound that gives ham (not to mention…

Do You Have Cloudy “Vegan Wine?”

Some people enjoy making wine, and many do so to avoid animal byproducts due to their vegan lifestyle. The process is a lengthy one that requires plenty of patience and can prove demanding with results that are not always ideal. In some cases, the product refuses to clear or develops a haze after achieving enough…

Cook Without a Script

Good morning. I commuted home from work for the last time one year ago today, a muted St. Patrick’s Day in Manhattan, the subways lightly populated — pretty late in the game to be out there. Did I make corned beef that night? Probably not. As I remember it, I made a huge grocery list.…