Inside the pit, he burned a few logs of hickory, which would heat the stones over the next few hours. Then, he went inside to make the humitas, blending corn into a paste with cinnamon, anise, clove, vanilla and sugar. The meat sat in the dining room, marinating in earthy huacatay, or Peruvian black mint,…
ANDOVER, Vermont — El olor de la menta y el humo brotaban de un hoyo en la tierra. Los cocineros laboraban con apuro pero metódicamente, colocando capas de papas, zanahorias, calabazas, habas, paleta de cerdo, presas de pollo, espaldilla de cordero, hierbas y humitas —una masa aderezada de maíz dulce y envuelta en hojas de…
Any of the topics that are going on today from a from a social standpoint — inequality issues, education issues, opioids, etc. — we are asked to opine on all of them. One of the things that I’ve had to think about is, where do we speak up on an issue, and where do we…
The world seems to have embraced the notion that rosé is meant to wear only the palest shade of pink. That is not remotely true. Pale rosés may be the most fashionable wines among the “Yes Way, Rosé” enthusiasts. But rosé encompasses an entire spectrum of hues and colors, from a barely discernible tinge of…
The wines were quite different, though the sample size was far too small to reach any conclusions about whether they represent their various terroirs. While terroir — the combination of soils and bedrock, climate, altitude, angle of inclination toward the sun and the human touch — no doubt plays an essential role with these wines,…
Cocktail history — a relatively new pursuit — tends to dwell on ancient bar manuals from the 19th and early 20th centuries, largely the works of white, male heralded bartenders like Harry Johnson, William Boothby and Jerry Thomas. The books deal with the kind of drinks that were served in taverns, where women were long…
But she recounted her frustration when, during a public event where Mr. Morris had highlighted her work, a retailer pushed past her to shake his hand. “He glanced at me and said, ‘Oh, you’re that taster girl,’” she recalled. “Chris said, ‘No, she is our master taster.’ But the guy said it a second time,…
Good morning. Ali Slagle is in The Times this week with a smart treatise on summer grilling that argues in favor of simple, high-heat cooking followed by seasoning with abandon — a no-marinade cooking style that delivers bright flavors above the smoke and char. And without the need to marinate, it’s perfect for weeknights. There…
But the real violence isn’t overcooking — I see that now. It’s shocking vegetables, a popular technique in French cuisine that usually involves halting the cooking process before a vegetable is done. Freezing it in time, but also quite literally: To shock a vegetable, you take it straight out of boiling water and drop it…
Last September, a pair of cabins the color of spaghetti sauce went up in the West Village roadbed outside the Italian American restaurant Don Angie. Along the base of each was a stripe of the same checkerboard linoleum used on the dining room floor. Each had three walls perforated by large windows whose rounded corners…