At Torien, Pleasures on the End of a Stick

Of all the places in Japan where yakitori is sold — the all-night convenience stores, vending machines, izakayas, yearly fairs and seasonal festivals, the crowded inlets around train station entrances, the two-wheeled pushcarts known as yata — the Tokyo restaurant Torishiki is, by general acclaim, considered the best. Those who have secured places at one…

These Are the Eggs You Are Looking For

Good morning. Dorie Greenspan has a lovely column in The New York Times Magazine this week devoted to the pleasures of oeuf mayonnaise (above), a classic appetizer of peeled boiled eggs under satiny mayonnaise that is so revered in France that there is a society there to protect its sanctity: the Association de sauvegarde de…

This Camembert Is Made for a Cookout

This summer, over in the aging caves of Murray’s Cheese in Long Island City, Queens, they’ve been having some fun with Camembert. The affineurs have given it the barbecue treatment, with a rub of brown sugar and spices like smoked paprika, infusing the cheese with a hint of the backyard grill. The Camembert they’re treating…

A Workshop for the Cronut King

The pastry chef Dominique Ansel has a knack for Viennoiseries, another name for croissants and their well-burnished everyday cousins. His Cronut aptly demonstrates his talent and imagination. Now, with his new NoMad workshop, he is delving deeper into the possibilities offered by the genre. “For 12 years working in Paris, it was all I was…

Seasonal Desserts That Surprise

The chapters in “Wild Sweetness,” a dessert cookbook by Thalia Ho, an award-winning food blogger who lives in Australia, unfold according to seasons, but without your typical peach pie in summer or pumpkin for fall. It’s a subtler, more elegant and personal collection, threaded throughout with chocolate. Several fancy confections are included, but most of…

Rum Rebranded, From Martinique

Most white, unaged rums are made industrially, that is, from the molasses byproduct of sugar refining. But not Rhum Clément on the island of Martinique in the West Indies. All of its rums, including the whites, are labeled agricole, meaning agricultural, distilled from the fresh-pressed and fermented juice of sugar cane. The company has now…