There are few two-ingredient desserts as transcendent as an icebox cake. When the unassuming combination of whipped cream and crisp wafer cookies are layered together and chilled overnight, they’re both reborn. The brittle, dry cookies absorb the moisture of the cream, softening into cake, while the whipped cream stiffens up into a plush snowdrift of…
I’m off next week — my wonderful colleague Margaux Laskey will be writing to you instead — and as I chose recipes for you below, I realized that this was my last newsletter of the summer, and that there are so many more recipes I wanted to share before it’s over. (Yes, summer technically ends…
I was stunned by the summer squash at the market this weekend — table after table of long, yellow and green zucchini with drooping, shaggy blossoms still attached; tiny patty pans, dimpled all the way around; and lumpy tangles of goosenecks. I went for some shiny-skinned zucchini, and have been eating them raw, cooked and…
Did someone say beveragino? At its simplest, a beveragino is a cocktail enjoyed among friends. (The term was popularized last summer by British TikTokers — and cleverly deployed by a group of cheeky ladies hanging out in a garden.) But a beveragino can also be a coffee, a tea, a limeade or a mocktail. Much…
Let it simmer for a minute or two to reduce the liquid a bit, then add the mussels and cover the pot. Check them after 5 minutes. Many will have opened, and as they do, use tongs to pluck them from the pot and put them in a bowl, re-covering the pot in between. If…
When I visited my Auntie Sulu in India, she cooked three meals a day and wrote out the plan for each one on a sheet of paper that she kept by the phone in her apartment. The idea of such a plan suggests a certain rigidity, but no, this was a shared, living document. It…
Headliner Bar Benno Now that it’s time to begin reopening his restaurants in the Evelyn Hotel in NoMad, the chef Jonathan Benno and his partners decided to do more than simply turn the key. In the space that was Leonelli Restaurant and Bar, they’ve pivoted from Italian to French, with the bar, tables and an…
The problem with Tom Colicchio’s new restaurant, Vallata, isn’t the cooking, most of which is very good and some of which is wonderful. All of it is Italian, in a rustic trattoria style based on ingredients plucked from the Union Square Greenmarket, a few blocks from Vallata’s location on East 19th Street. “Colicchio cooks Italian”…
Eight years ago, I spent my first 48 hours in the United States being driven around the New Jersey suburbs by an acquaintance of my father’s. In his eagerness to familiarize me with the superiority of his (and now my) surrogate nation, he took particular care to show me the fundamental institutions that, according to…
BRUNSWICK, Ga. — It’s not a stretch to say there may have never been a party for a cookbook like the one Matthew Raiford threw on his family farm a few weeks ago. The book’s title is “Bress ‘n’ Nyam” — “bless and eat” in the English-based Creole spoken by the Gullah Geechee people who…