A New Food Hall for Midtown

Hugh Stubbins, the architect of a landmark skyscraper with an angled roof at Lexington Avenue and 53rd Street, now has his name emblazoned over the entrance to a spacious and soaring new food hall called the Hugh, which occupies the heart of the building’s ground floor. Originally the Citicorp Center and now owned by Boston…

The Meadow Moves Across Town

A year ago, Mark Bitterman closed the Meadow, his West Village shop with its unusual inventory of chocolate bars, salts and bitters. After closing down during the pandemic, he has now relocated across town. At the deep, narrow store furnished with reclaimed lumber you can buy a different chocolate bar for almost every day of…

There’s Something About Miso

Years ago, at a New York restaurant called Nishi, I tried a cheeky, cheeseless version of cacio e pepe made with chickpea miso. I was skeptical, but the hot, slippery noodles were so satisfying, so full of salty dimension and depth, so absurdly delicious, that I didn’t miss the cheese at all. There’s both nuance…

A Stew for Labor Day

Good morning. Happy Labor Day. Because of the coronavirus there’ll be no West Indian American Day Parade this year along Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn, but if you’d like to get into the spirit of past and future holidays, you might try this luscious Jamaican oxtail stew (above) that I learned to make a decade ago…

The Ethereal Taste of Flowers

PART OF THE confusion is a matter of terms. The ancients grappled with how to categorize the sensations that come to us through food. As the classicist John Paulas outlines in his 2017 essay “Tastes of the Extraordinary: Flavor Lists in Imperial Rome,” the Greek philosopher Alexander of Aphrodisias, around the turn of the third…