Jack Sprat may eat no fat, but I wonder how he’d weigh in on boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Unlike the rich, sinewy flesh of the drumstick or wing — of which I doubt he’d approve — boneless, skinless thighs provide unbroken expanses of smooth, texturally unchallenging meat. While not quite as lean as chicken breasts,…
MECHANICSVILLE, Pa. — Steve Tomlinson takes pride in the details at Carversville Farm, the 388-acre certified-organic spread he manages here in bucolic Bucks County. There’s the high-tech poultry barn, where an automated system ensures that wobbly week-old chickens get just the right amount of light, heat, ventilation and food. There’s the 10-foot-long steel barrel washer,…
GRANTS PASS, Ore. — The Applegate Valley in southern Oregon has a lot of things going for it as a region for making terrific wines. Panoramic natural beauty, however, is not one of them. Unlike the Columbia River Gorge, an Oregon region with the potential for excellent wine and far more breathtaking scenery in every…
The 21st night of September, the Autumn equinox and the Mid-Autumn Festival, I split a rich, flaky mooncake with my partner. It’s officially fall this week, but it doesn’t feel like it yet. In Los Angeles, it’s hot. And there are still tons of beautiful eggplant and tomatoes at the farmers’ market, including teeny, sweet…
The next year, in 2016, I hauled 40 people to Castelluccio to celebrate my birthday; six of them were Cooper’s age. Watching one kid playing in the Piano Grande is fun; watching seven of them puts a permanent grin on your face. Peppe, at Taverna Castelluccio, was a champ, especially after I emailed him beforehand…
Could your relationship with breakfast use some TLC? Perhaps your morning meals are forgettable at best, or you skip them entirely in favor of a big cup of coffee as you rush to clock in, get the dog to day care, ferry the kids to school or log on for that Zoom meeting. The following…
Good morning. Genevieve Ko is in The Times this week with a terrific column about turning her back on her stand mixer and food processor, and instead glorying in the pleasures of baking with her hands. Recipes illustrate her argument and provide a road map for a wonderful evening in the kitchen: delicate yet sturdy,…
Headliner Jibs With the vibe of a seafood shack but far grander, this outdoor newcomer to Hudson Yards, overlooking the river, seats 200 at a bar area with counters and high-tops, and on a dining deck with captain’s chairs and picnic tables. It will be a year-round affair, with a roof covering that retracts, removable…
Shukette is the chef Ayesha J. Nurdjaja’s faster, looser, louder spinoff of Shuka. Both restaurants get their names from shuk, the Hebrew word for an open-air market, and Shukette gets more than that: the commotion and noise, the smell of cumin and charcoal, the head-spinning array of snacks and pickles and dips and skewers and…
CROZET, Va. — You pick up a lot of skills after 79 years of being Leni Sorensen, perhaps America’s most unsung food historian. She can spin wool, butcher hogs and can venison. If she had to, she could make money sewing clothes or selling tamales. She can sing, too. Her contralto voice landed her a…