Back in the Kitchen

Good morning. I was on the road for a few days, and not cooking at all. The food was fine while traveling — wings and tots, a pepperoni and Parmesan croissant, a decent cheese steak, a better-than-decent Italian sub and a remarkable beet smoothie from a juice bar in Lorain, Ohio, that I drank in…

How to Drink Cider

Autumn is here and, despite the aggressive push for pumpkin spice, it’s unequivocally apple — and cider — season. At its most basic definition, cider is fermented apple juice. But like wine, it contains multitudes, skewing tart, sour, dry, bitter, sweet, wild, herbal, acidic, sparkling with big bubbles, sparkling with fine, fizzy bubbles or not…

I Can’t Stop Making This Dish

We have a new favorite recipe in the rotation at our house: Eric Kim’s version of gyeran bap, a dish he paid homage to in his column in The New York Times Magazine a few weeks ago. Several cultures have a dish like this, a soul-satisfying combination of fried egg and rice, topped as you…

War and Strife Have Come to Prosecco Country

VALDOBBIADENE, ITALY — Small pickup trucks carrying mounds of green grapes wound through Prosecco Road. Workers harvesting in the terraced vineyards squinted in the sun. Tipsy tourists stopped in for tastings. Couples clinked glasses in the town’s quaint Prosecco bars. But behind the effervescent front, producers of Italy’s wildly popular sparkling white wine in the…