Of all the crispy fried cutlet variations that have tantalized me over the years, Kay Chun’s chicken katsu might be the most weeknight friendly. Instead of turning to the usual messy deep-fry, Kay shallow-fries the cutlets by using just enough oil to submerge them halfway. The thin disks of meat emerge golden, crunchy and juicy…
In the middle of the 14th century, on a journey through India, the Florence-born friar Giovanni de’ Marignolli came across a fruit he’d never seen. It was “as big as a great lamb, or a child of 3 years old,” he wrote. “You have to cut it open with a hatchet.” The reward was “a…
Something is changing about New York City’s pizza. It’s not the continued farmers’ market-ification of ingredients, nor is it the ever-expanding definition of what can go on a pizza (ham and horseradish cream, anyone?). It’s not the natural wine pairings, or even the buzzy, inventive pop-ups. Instead, the ovens themselves are in transition. “The most…
TikTok is many things: a place for slime videos, a free therapy session, the leading source of information in America right now, and, for some, the ultimate restaurant resource. With a properly tuned algorithm, TikTok can become a never-ending scroll of rhythmic recommendations from critics of varying reliability, many of whom have been paid by…
Eric Kim has just written a luminous essay about Japanese breakfast, with its constellation of small savory dishes (rice, miso soup, fish, pickles), and the daily practice of preparing it. You could make it bespoke every day, but the more pragmatic approach is to cook some of the elements ahead and fill out the meal…
Getir, the rapid grocery-delivery company that boomed during Covid lockdowns, said it was ending its operations in the United States and Europe, a major retreat by another pandemic darling. The company, which aimed to deliver groceries and other small conveniences in as fast as 10 minutes, said that it would refocus on its home base,…
Opening Esse Taco Tacos as street food — if your street is Park Avenue — is Enrique Olvera’s approach at his new Brooklyn spot, his first for the borough; he owns it with Santiago Pérez, the chief executive of Casamata hospitality group. Mr. Olvera, the chef and restaurateur known for Pujol in Mexico City and…
It’s a classic Trinidadian dessert — a chocolate cake soaked in overproof rum and topped with swoops of ultrapasteurized whipped cream. But wait: It’s also a signature Pakistani cake, saturated with cherry brandy essence. And a Chilean cake, festooned with locally grown cherries. And a Lebanese cake — not too sweet, with little to no…
Hello and “happy” Monday! I’m filling in for Melissa today, so it feels only right to kick things off with her new recipe for creamy fish with mushrooms and bacon. Pardon the Stefon-ism, but this recipe has it all: mild, white-fleshed fish (good for the fishy-fish averse); canned tomatoes (the pantry M.V.P.); mushrooms and bacon…
In the Where to Eat: 25 Best series, we’re highlighting our favorite restaurants in cities across the United States. These lists will be updated as restaurants close and open, and as we find new gems to recommend. As always, we pay for all of our meals and don’t accept free dishes. Riverdale Park | Barbecue,…