The Power of the Mortar and Pestle

There are family members we never get to meet, those whose absences are filled by the memories of the people who knew them. I never met my great-grandmother Osunfunke Thomas (nee Olatunji), but I’ve formed an image of her from the story of her passing, as told to me by my mother and her sisters.…

Instant Pot Recipes and Wisdom

When I first wrote about Instant Pots back in 2017, it was with the ardor of new love. I’d fallen hard for my first electric pressure cooker, delighting in the myriad ways it could improve my kitchen life. All those weeknight meals of dried beans and silky braised meats, the speedy brown rice, the endless…

What to Do With All Those Apples

I went apple picking last weekend, along with about a million other people in the New York metro area. Is it me, or does recreational apple picking just continue to surge year over year as a fall activity? Some people are not into it, which I get, and yes, cynically speaking, it’s an excellent flannel-clad…

Fried Chicken Recipes

Good morning. I’ve fried chicken in shallow pans and deep-sided, cast-iron chicken fryers, in a nasty bar-kitchen fryolator, in a super-clean one in a sparkling kitchen, in an as-seen-on-TV counter appliance, in a wok placed over a propane hob in the yard. I like the deep cast-iron skillet best, both for its even heat-keeping abilities…

Who Will Save Alice’s Tea Cup?

The vibe at Alice’s Tea Cup, the whimsical teahouse on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, was a busy mellow on a recent Sunday afternoon. People stood around, casually waiting to be seated, while the restaurant’s outdoor tables — overflowing with fancy teapots and three-tiered trays full of scones, salmon and cucumber sandwiches, cookies and slices of…

Embracing an Unloved Grape

He wondered what would happen if the grape were farmed differently, with the goal of achieving ripeness at a lower sugar content, and made into wine with a lighter touch. “It was never really about liking or not liking the variety,” he said. “It was about finding a path that seemed untrodden and being really…

Cozy Fall Recipes

It was 90 degrees the other day in Los Angeles, but I desperately wanted it to feel like fall! Specifically, the New York fall setting of “Only Murders in the Building.” I’ve been watching it lately, and I’m thoroughly charmed by Martin Short’s character — the catastrophically confident theater director in a long blue coat…

Stir-Frying Without a Wok

Good morning. I loved this column Genevieve Ko wrote for the newspaper that we sent to the plant yesterday, printed overnight, stuffed into blue bags and hurled in the direction of our home-delivery subscribers’ front doors this morning. It’s about how she’s keeping the culinary traditions of her immigrant parents alive, adapting Western kitchen equipment…