Vegetarian Snacks for Diwali and Beyond

The best Diwalis I can remember involved days of epic, back-to-back parties: endless sweets in my aunties’ living rooms; dancing in hot, scratchy new outfits; and cousins racing down the squeaky floors of community-center halls with paper plates stacked high with snacks. These days, it’s less of a production: I light some candles around the…

What Kenji López-Alt Cooks His Family for Dinner

Gyunabe (literally “beef pot,”), a simple stew of sliced beef, onion and miso paste, quickly evolved into more well-known dishes like sukiyaki (“spade grill,” so named because farmers used their spades as makeshift simmering pots while working in the fields) and gyudon (“beef rice bowl”), which are each made with thin-sliced beef simmered in a…

Preserving a Palestinian Identity in the Kitchen

HAIFA, Israel — A tangy scent permeated Mariam Sindawi’s kitchen as she scattered flecks of ruby-colored sumac into a simmering pot of caramelized onions, following a centuries-old Palestinian recipe handed down by her mother. Mrs. Sindawi, 82, was preparing mussakhan — flatbread layered with onions cooked in olive oil from the village where she spent…

Don’t Pass Up These 12 Loire Reds

Nadège La Vignes Herbel Vin de France Vigneronne 2019, 12.5 percent, $28 Here is another natural wine from the Anjou, a little more serious than Le Vin de Jardin but just as delicious. Nadège Lelandais farms organically and biodynamically, using grapes from various plots in the area. Vigneronne is made of cabernet franc and cabernet…

Salisbury Steak Deserves Another Chance

If my childhood were a candle, it would smell like Worcestershire, ketchup and brown sugar. As an adult, I like to mix equal parts of them for a makeshift sauce that glazes everything from tonkatsu and barbecued chicken to chargrilled kalbi and juicy hamburger steaks. It’s a glossy-sweet motif in my life, this flavor profile,…