Momofuku Names a New Chef, Paul Carmichael

In 2015, in the back of Star Casino in Sydney, Australia, Paul Carmichael began something extraordinary. As the new chef at Momofuku Seiobo, the first of David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants outside the United States, Mr. Carmichael turned what had been a fine-dining venue with European, American and Asian influences into a bastion of thoughtful Caribbean…

Is Black Wine the New Orange?

Among vinophiles, homemade wine has always had an unsavory reputation. For law-abiding drinkers, however, D.I.Y. was almost the only option during Prohibition, when a loophole in the Volstead Act allowed Americans to consume about two-and-a-half bottles of the stuff per household per day. The preferred grape for amateur vintners was one that wasn’t particularly popular…

Late-Night Dining Is Back. Sort Of.

In the early months of writing this newsletter, I used to receive many a reader email asking where to eat a proper meal after 9 or 10 p.m. The pandemic had destroyed what I would call later-night dining, and what others like to call post-theater dining. “Post-pandemic New York, a late-dining city by American standards,”…

How to Make the Best Berry Cake

Summer berries make us all look like great bakers. Their acidity effortlessly balances sweet cake and muffin batters, their juices saturate cobbler tops and trifles, and they willingly reduce into chewy jam at the edge of crisps and crumbles. I have half a mind to stop writing there, and to just let you follow any…

Pesto Pasta Bubbles!

In Melissa Clark’s “Dinner in One” cookbook — which is her collection of one-pot recipes, you’re welcome — Melissa shares that her family refers to pearl couscous as pasta bubbles. Pasta bubbles! Is there any better term for capturing the delightful chew and pleasingly spherical shape of this tiny pasta? (The “pasta bubbles” recipe, by…

Blissfully Crunchy Hot Honey Chicken

Hello! Here’s something new: I took over the Well newsletter this week, creating a weekend-prep game plan to make weeknight cooking faster and easier. Think: Wash and cut up your sturdy veggies on Sunday so you’re all set for orzo salad on Monday and naan-o paneer-o sabzi on Tuesday. Sign up here to get my…