The Charm of Parm

I had the good fortune to eat eggplant Parmesan for dinner this week (not made by me!), and it got me thinking about the intense pleasures of the Parm family — not just eggplant Parmesan, but the various iterations made with chicken, pork, veal, mushrooms, cauliflower or even zucchini. (There’s also air-fryer chicken Parmesan, which…

Canned Tomatoes, Explained

What a gift it would be to bottle up summer and enjoy it in the thick of February. Plenty have tried. Sea salt hair spray never quite replicates those natural beachy waves, piña colada hard seltzer won’t transport you to the tropics and that garden vegetable candle just doesn’t stand in for the real thing.…

A Fast Orange Rolls Recipe

It’s easy to forget that citrus has a season unless you live among the trees, somewhere warm where you can catch its daydream scent with the winter breeze. If you know that magic, you want to capture it. If you don’t, you want to experience it. There’s a hint of it when peeling an orange,…

Best Sheet Cake Recipes

A lofty layered cake is a lovely thing when the occasion calls for one, but sheet cakes, while maybe not quite as impressive, have a lot going for them. Not only are they easier to bake — no annoying trimming or crumb coatings required — but they also feed a crowd and travel well, so…

Best Sheet Cake Recipes

A lofty layered cake is a lovely thing when the occasion calls for one, but sheet cakes, while maybe not quite as impressive, have a lot going for them. Not only are they easier to bake — no annoying trimming or crumb coatings required — but they also feed a crowd and travel well, so…

Best Sheet Cake Recipes

A lofty layered cake is a lovely thing when the occasion calls for one, but sheet cakes, while maybe not quite as impressive, have a lot going for them. Not only are they easier to bake — no annoying trimming or crumb coatings required — but they also feed a crowd and travel well, so…

How to Make Crispy Chicken Skin

As juicy and succulent as the meat of properly roasted chicken may be, I’m really in it for the bronzed bits of skin curling at the edges of the bird. Salty, crispy and slicked with schmaltz, chicken skin is at its best when it’s been seasoned with garlic and salt, then left to sit uncovered…

The 25 Essential Dishes to Eat in Paris

There is perhaps no Zoom meeting less satisfying than one scheduled on a cold weekday morning to talk about food — specifically, the food that one ought to eat in Paris. We couldn’t gather in a great restaurant, for the people assembled were chefs and writers spread across continents, some racing from their kitchens, others…