Both celery root and mussels are at their best right now, so here’s a bright-green menu that welcomes them — a cool weather meal with verve and brightness, best eaten near the warmth of a fire or reasonable facsimile thereof. This dish employs two kinds of celery: the tender hearts of branch celery and so-called…
Getting chicken breasts right is a flex, but a tricky one. The delicate white meat, so low in fat, can go from supple to chalky in only one distracted, phone-checking, heartbreaking minute. Pierre Franey’s five-star recipe for chicken breasts with lemon solves this problem by searing the chicken quickly on both sides until golden brown…
The summer after college, I worked briefly as a shoe model. By briefly, I mean that I was fired after one day. I had sublet a basement room somewhere in the hundreds on the West Side of Manhattan, and my belongings, mostly books, remained unpacked, in duct-taped boxes stacked around the bed. I had to…
Headliner Red Sorghum The 1930s romanticized movie-set look of China, with fringed hanging lanterns, vermilion accents, wicker and greenery, has come to Long Island City. The elaborate new restaurant from Vincent Lin and his business partner, Mandy Zhang, who also own Blue Willow in Midtown Manhattan and Ye’s Apothecary in Chinatown, and their executive chef,…
We patty-melt people will always be outnumbered by the hamburger people, and we know it. The burger is pillowy, rounded and voluptuous. The patty melt is starchy, angled and flat. The burger is popular the way vanilla ice cream is popular. The patty melt, popular with a small minority, is black raspberry. It is the…
In the course of becoming a Rock & Roll Hall of Famer, a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award winner and the subject of a forthcoming biopic set to star Selena Gomez, Linda Ronstadt has packed theaters around the globe. But her favorite sits on a one-way side street in Tucson, Ariz. With a courtyard draped in…
A dozen roses would be challenged to compete with the delectable Sweethearts Cake from Nick Morgenstern, the ice cream wizard. A raspberry-dusted slather of gossamer whipped cream covers a half-cylinder of Madagascar vanilla ice cream, set on raspberry sponge cake for a snowy, edible Quonset hut. Hearts of tart red fruit jam show up in…
Substituting vegetables in traditionally meat-centric dishes is one of my favorite hacks — whether mushrooms for beef, zucchini for shrimp, or, as in Kay Chun’s new take on Filipino adobo, eggplant for chicken. It’s a brilliant swap: The eggplant stays just firm enough to hold its shape, but gets suffused with the tangy flavors of…
New York City has its bodegas. The South has its gas stations. When you stop for motor oil in Mississippi, you can also grab fried chicken on a stick. In North Carolina, you can buy a steamy bowl of pozole along with a batteries and a five-pound bag of White Lily flour. There might be…
Tanya Sichynsky likes to collect restaurant menus, and she even has a few of them framed on the walls of her apartment in New York. The menus she displays represent a few of the dinners she had during meaningful moments in her life. Priya Krishna wrote about menus as a French major in college. For…