Risi e Bisi Time!

Good morning. If there’s anything we’ve learned from a pandemic spent watching people make quesabirria tacos and soondubu jjigae on TikTok, it’s that culinary authenticity is a slippery concept: internet fame, as Tejal Rao told us recently, both broadens demand for particular dishes and flattens our perception of them. Suddenly there’s only one way to…