Restaurant Review: Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish
In 2012 and 2013, when people were lining up at Smorgasburg and then on the second floor of the Houston Street Whole Foods Market for biodegradable bowls of Yuji Haraguchi’s mazemen — noodles that might be dressed with crisped twigs of bacon and a jiggling onsen egg, say, or yuzu-cured salmon and some Camembert soft…