36 Hours in Rijeka, Croatia
If Croatia’s seaside locales have become tourism starlets, then Rijeka, a working-class port city on the Adriatic, is the country’s gritty understudy. So, it came as some surprise when this town, whose skyline merges Hapsburgian decadence with shipyard cranes, was named European Capital of Culture for 2020 over other Croatian candidates like Dubrovnik and Split.…