Bites: At Hidden Fish in San Diego, the Dance of the Omakase
Deep in the blue-collar San Diego neighborhood of Kearny Mesa, wedged between auto dealerships and neon-lit fast-food chains, the chef John Hong is performing nightly timed shows of the Japanese ritual omakase. This isn’t a theater. It’s the restaurant Hidden Fish, a Lilliputian space of only 13 seats wrapped around an L-shaped bar. But you…