Hungry City: Thai That Takes a Cue From Its Brooklyn Neighbors
Wun maprao onn — or Coconut Delight, as the Bangkok-born Jess Calvo of Thai Farm Kitchen in Kensington, Brooklyn, calls it — is “the most difficult dessert to make,” he said. “First, you have to find the right young coconut.” This was a slightly easier task when he lived with ready access to coconut trees,…