An Instant Crush Over Mashed Potatoes

The cardboard cup of mashed potatoes Gustavo Chagas Lopes handed Luke John Robinson III on Oct. 11, 2021, was not meant to be an aphrodisiac. But for Mr. Robinson, something in the way Mr. Lopes, then the manager of the Brooklyn restaurant Sally Roots, had passed them off was spellbinding. “Gustavo is just so striking,”…

A Chicken Stew With Mayan Roots

Seven years ago, just as Jorge Cárdenas was about to open Ix Restaurant in Prospect Lefferts Gardens, Brooklyn, he returned to his home in Quetzaltenango, in the highlands of Guatemala, to make sure that his recipes tasted like those his Mayan grandmother had taught him to make. He worried about his version of jocón, a…

It’s Date Night

On a recent night in the East Village of Manhattan, the Avenue A sidewalk brimmed with chattering bargoers as Tupac’s “California Love” blared from an indeterminable source. A marquee loomed above, and through a veil of vape and cigarette exhaust, its two words beckoned: “DATE SHAKE.” My companions and I piled into Superiority Burger at…