The Best Chilaquiles You’ve Ever Had

It’s tough to paint a picture of my first chilaquiles plate, but I’ll try: simmering green salsa on a pastel dish, covering crispy tortilla chips cracking like eggshells against a fork — and also a runny egg, with handfuls of herbs and entirely too much queso fresco. Or it could have been salsa roja, shining…

How to Avoid Crowds in Venice

Take in a Roman Renaissance palace The walkways of Venice might be overcrowded, but many of its museums are not. According to the city’s official record, each year over a million tickets are sold for St. Mark’s Basilica and for the Doge’s Palace, but lesser-known museums sell only a tiny fraction of that. One of…

Restaurant Review: Artesano in TriBeCa

A melody drifted across the dining room like a smoke ring: “Tall and tan and young and lovely. …” The singer, sitting at the end of the bar, had Astrud Gilberto’s sultry contralto and calm, unrushed phrasing. There was a guitarist, too, tracing bossa nova rhythms that the bartenders fell into each time they raised…