Eat: A Simple Citrus Salad to Brighten Up the Dead of Winter
For a while, my job was to make French fries at a restaurant in Fairfax County, Va. I did nothing else. I peeled big potatoes and dropped them in water, my hands slippery with starch. When I had enough potatoes, I carried them to the ancient fry-cutting machine, a cast-iron relic of the 1960s, and,…