Critic’s Notebook: The Old-School Reasons to Love Los Angeles Restaurants
LOS ANGELES — It was Friday night in Cypress Park, and King Taco glowed with neon. Inside, teenagers in sweatshirts and shiny puffer coats tipped cups of salsa on beef-tongue tacos. Cooks hustled, calling out orders in Spanish. Angelenos don’t usually know where I live if I rattle off the cross streets, but add just…