Wine School: You Can Teach an Old-Vine Grape New Tricks

In California, a handful of popular grapes accounts for an overwhelming proportion of the state’s vineyard acreage. These grapes — cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, zinfandel, merlot, pinot noir, syrah and sauvignon blanc — dominate production and the perception of California wines. Yet some of the most satisfying California wines today are made by producers working outside…