The Future of New York Pizza Is Electric

Something is changing about New York City’s pizza. It’s not the continued farmers’ market-ification of ingredients, nor is it the ever-expanding definition of what can go on a pizza (ham and horseradish cream, anyone?). It’s not the natural wine pairings, or even the buzzy, inventive pop-ups. Instead, the ovens themselves are in transition. “The most…

Less-Is-More Miso Roasted Salmon

Eric Kim has just written a luminous essay about Japanese breakfast, with its constellation of small savory dishes (rice, miso soup, fish, pickles), and the daily practice of preparing it. You could make it bespoke every day, but the more pragmatic approach is to cook some of the elements ahead and fill out the meal…