How to Fall in Love With Tofu

In my column this week I wrote about my quest to eat more plant-based meals, with the goal to become as fluent in tofu as I am in chicken thighs. Turns out, those proteins have a lot in common, including an affinity for pungent marinades and a tendency to become their tastiest selves when laid…

Plating Trends at Restaurants

At the restaurant ILIS in Brooklyn, your smoked tomato and clam dashi arrives in a giant clamshell, sealed with beeswax and roped shut. At Naks in the East Village, bites of beef tartare on crisped beef fat are ferried to your table on a cow horn. The post-plate era of fine dining is in full…