The Cicadas Are Here. For the Chef Bun Lai, They’re on the Menu.
WOODBRIDGE, CONN. — For Bun Lai, cicadas are mesmerizing to eat, their sweet, bitter flavor reminiscent of walnuts, chestnuts and adzuki beans, and their gently crunchy exterior giving way to creaminess, like a soft shell crab. Every technique for cooking them “brings out different tones and shades,” he said. Mr. Lai, 47, is the chef…