Hello from the road! I’m scouting for part of our annual national restaurant list, eating nonstop at a slew of new-to-me places. As inspiring and fun as this is — and wow is it ever — it can also be a little overwhelming. Trips like these make me miss the simple meals I cook in my own kitchen.
Ham El-Waylly has a homey and easy recipe for za’atar and labneh spaghetti that’s at the top of the list for when I get back. The sauce has the plush, creamy texture of an Alfredo, but it’s made with labneh (or strained yogurt), which emulsifies with the pasta water in the pan to instantly coat each spaghetti strand. Ham sprinkles green fistfuls of za’atar over the top just before serving, lending complex, earthy-herby notes. There’s a video with the recipe so you can watch him make the pan sauce. It can be a little tricky if it accidentally comes to a boil, but fear not, Ham has a fix for that!
Featured Recipe
Za’atar and Labneh Spaghetti
After days of restaurant meals, one of the things I’m jonesing for most is a plateful of roasted vegetables. Amanda Hesser’s roasted cauliflower is an ideal blank canvas of a recipe, just waiting for some chopped herbs or capers or a squeeze of lemon to brighten up the translucent, sweet florets. Amanda roasts her cauliflower at 375 degrees, which makes for tender pieces that caramelize lightly in spots. But if you prefer deeper, darker singeing and lots of crisp edges, crank the temperature to 425 degrees.
For an even faster vegetable-centered dinner, Hetty Lui McKinnon’s cashew celery is a 20-minute stir-fry with delightful textures. There’s crisp and juicy celery, crunchy cashews and slippery, soft tofu cubes, all enveloped in a fragrant, gingery sauce. Serve it over rice for the ultimate in speedy, meatless weeknight meals.
