Here are a couple of goat cheeses from Barn First Creamery, a small farm in Westfield, Vt., that have uncommon depth and flavor. The farm’s owners — Merlin Backus, who is originally from Westfield, and Rebecca Velasquez, the cheesemaker — started the project in 2013 and now have 30 goats. Most of their cheeses are not in the typical tangy-fresh style. There are two sold in New York: Urdang, a buttery, tawny washed-rind block of satiny cheese, with alluring floral notes and a nice nuttiness; and Cowles, a smaller soft-ripening square, with a bloomy ash-tinged rind and a tart bite.
Barn First Creamery Cowles, $19 for 8 ounces; Urdang, $28 for 12 ounces; Saxelby Cheesemongers, Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Avenue (15th Street), 646-892-3077, saxelbycheese.com.Follow NYT Food on Twitter and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Get regular updates from NYT Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.