When I was in second grade, my elementary school principal convinced my parents that children should not watch TV on weekdays. Naturally, I developed a crippling, lifelong obsession with television.
Twenty-six years later, I’ve watched enough TV to be wary of spinoffs. Most don’t live up to the success of the I.P. that inspired them (“Joey,” “How I Met Your Father,” “And Just Like That …”). But then a show like “Better Call Saul” or “Law & Order: Special Victims Unit” comes along and equals or outshines its predecessor.
Apply this formula to restaurants and you can make the case for sticking to what’s tried-and-true: There has only ever been, and only need ever be, one Keens Steakhouse. But if Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya had stopped at Adda Indian Canteen, we wouldn’t have Dhamaka, Masalawala & Sons, Rowdy Rooster or Semma. In that spirit, I thought I would highlight three brand-new spinoffs of wildly popular and singular restaurants — Cote Korean Steakhouse, Don Angie and Miss Ada — and determine whether they live up to the original.
Coqodaq
When early coverage of this Korean fried chicken restaurant from the team behind Cote Korean Steakhouse highlighted the caviar-topped chicken nuggets, I was immediately suspicious. But I’m happy to say that’s where the gimmicks begin and end at Coqodaq. Even if you order nothing but the Bucket List dinner — chicken consommé, a small selection of banchan, two kinds of crispy, mostly-dark-meat fried chicken, cold noodles and frozen yogurt — you can get away with a satisfying, multicourse dinner for about $50 per person after tax and tip. Did I also mention that this affordable feast is delivered at lightning speed in a breathtaking dining room? If money is no object, you might add on the coleslaw, the chicken and curry and Champagne (my party of four split a $65 bottle of Crémant). But I can faithfully say that whatever you choose, you’ll be back again soon.
Verdict: As good as the original. Bonus points for the hand-washing station with fancy soaps at the front of the restaurant.
12 East 22nd Street (Broadway)
