With the publication of her latest, “Baking with Dorie,” the baker and New York Times contributor Dorie Greenspan now has 14 cookbooks to her name. This one — a thicket of new ideas, with a few old favorites tossed in — places some emphasis on savory baking, with recipes for mushroom and herb ricotta tart, cheese gougères and a tomato tart. A miso-maple loaf is sweet but not dessert. There are cookies, especially shortbreads, and also chocolate éclairs and a linzer with cranberries. A marble cake made with milk chocolate and coconut milk was a surprising success. I loved what she had to say about the Parisian custard tart, or flan, which has a particular place in the French baking canon but is virtually unknown in the United States. The directions are precise and most of the recipes include a lagniappe called “playing around.”
“Baking With Dorie: Sweet, Salty and Simple” by Dorie Greenspan (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $35).
