Jōji
Below street level, with an entrance from Grand Central Terminal, sits this concise Japanese restaurant in the One Vanderbilt skyscraper where Daniel Boulud has his grand, leafy restaurant Le Pavillon. Mr. Boulud is running it with Marc Holliday of SL Green, the building’s developer. It’s a luxury enclave with a 10-seat counter and a private room with just eight seats. Sushi omakase by the chef George Ruan, formerly of Masa, is the plat du jour for $375 per person at two seatings. (Wednesday)
One Vanderbilt Avenue (42nd Street), jojinyc.com.
KRU
Stretching the Thai repertoire with dishes like young jackfruit salad, five-spice crispy pig ears, relishes like tamarind chile paste, kaeng kua lobster with santol (wild mangosteen), and pork belly with herbs and vegetables is this elaborate restaurant from the chef Ohm Suansilphong and his wife, the chef Kiki Supap. Many of the dishes are inspired by royal Thai cooking and are served in a setting decorated with herbs and spices. (Saturday)
190 North 14th Street (Wythe Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, krubrooklyn.com.
Pearl Street Supper Club
The Tiffany of seafood shacks with a tasting menu (nine courses) for $125 plus a $25 service fee has opened near the Brooklyn waterfront. John Coppola, the owner, who is from Brooklyn and worked in Montauk, and the Connecticut native Chris Cote, the executive chef, describe the approach as modern New England with a menu that features seafood like scallops, bluefish, monkfish and oysters and dishes like black radish with charred squid, begonia leaf, bayberry leaf; oysters with tomato, lemon verbena and dulse; and bluefish with fermented asparagus and buttermilk whey. The counter-only restaurant has seats that face a kitchen equipped with steam and induction, no gas or grills. There are two seatings daily, Wednesdays through Saturdays. A wine and beer license is in the wings.
147 Front Street (Jay Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn, pearlstreetsupperclub.com.
Monsieur Vo
Madame Vo’s new partner, a short distance away, is the replacement for Madame Vo BBQ, which closed during the pandemic. The room has been redone, and the menu by Jimmy Ly, in partnership with Yen Vo, features a deconstructed banh mi board, tamarind-glazed bone marrow, dry pho with chicken, a copious skewer platter and lemongrass fish.
104 Second Avenue (East Sixth Street), 917-675-7068, madamevo.com.
