Over many years the use and evolution of spices became a subject of fascination and study for Eleanor Ford, a London-based food writer who has lived in Indonesia and Hong Kong. A result is not only her vast collection of spices, but also a new, colorful cookbook, “The Nutmeg Trail: Recipes and Stories Along the Ancient Spice Routes.” It peels back layers of history — spice by spice, starting with nutmeg — from the many seasonings that have elevated food since antiquity. Spice routes, trade and colonialism figure importantly in the text. Ms. Ford provides flavor profiles and origins of spices, and decodes classic blends with a focus on the Middle East, Asia and a snippet of Africa; she omits French vadouvan and quatre-épices. Spices shine in recipes like Keralan black pepper chicken, and superb green peppercorn asparagus. Glossaries, charts and maps categorize spices throughout.
“The Nutmeg Trail: Recipes and Stories Along the Ancient Spice Routes” (Apollo Publishers, $40).
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