Even in pre-quarantine days, whenever I roasted a chicken, I always saved the bones for stock.
I learned this from my mother, who thriftily guarded the bones not only from chickens and ducks, but from every pork chop, rack of lamb and beef roast to pass through our kitchen. (Not to mention mushroom stems, leek greens, and shrimp and lobster shells.)
She never even put them in the freezer, as I do. Once the dishes were cleared, the bones went straight into a small pot, where they’d simmer in salted water along with an onion and a bay leaf until bedtime. Sometimes she’d throw in carrots or herbs, but not always. Making stock wasn’t a production, and sometimes it yielded only a quart or less. But it was an entrenched part of the kitchen ecosystem.
I channeled her this week when I roasted a chicken I was lucky enough to get my hands on (no small feat these days). Dinner was a crisp-skinned treat; we have leftovers for chicken salad for lunch; and in the freezer is a 2-quart container of golden broth. All of this done between the email-answering, news-checking and wine-drinking of a typical weeknight in captivity.
I roasted the chicken in a skillet, chiefly so I could use the drippings still in the pan to sauté some kale as a side dish. But you can use any pan you like, as long as it has a rim to catch the juices.
[For more instruction and photos, see Melissa’s How to Roast a Chicken guide.]
First, though, season your chicken all over (including the cavity) with about 2 teaspoons kosher salt (for a 3 1/2-pound bird), and a lot of black pepper. (You can also add a grated garlic clove or two, some lemon zest, some spices like cumin or garam masala, or chopped thyme or rosemary.) If you have time, let the chicken rest uncovered in the fridge for a few hours to dry out the skin. And if you have some sturdy, woody herbs (sage, thyme, rosemary, a bay leaf), stuff them in the cavity either before or after resting.
When ready to roast, heat the oven to 425 degrees, and, at the same time, heat a skillet on your stovetop for a few minutes. Drizzle the pan with a little oil or other fat, and add the bird so it’s lying on its back. Let it cook on the stovetop for about 5 minutes, then move it to the oven. (If you are using a roasting or other pan, just put the chicken in it on its back.)
Roast the bird until it’s burnished all over and the wing tips — if your chicken still has them attached — are a little singed. The juices should run clear if you prick the thigh with a fork (165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer). This takes about 45 minutes for a small bird and up to an hour or an hour and 15 minutes for a larger bird. You can also roast the bird at 400 or 375 degrees. Simply let it cook for longer. Roast chicken is very forgiving.
When it’s done, move the bird to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes. I used that time to sauté some sliced leeks, garlic and kale in the drippings. But those drippings also make an excellent sauce, especially if you happen to have some mashed potatoes, rice or noodles to soak them up.
After dinner (or refrigerate the carcass until the next day, there’s no rush), make the stock: Pick any remaining meat off the carcass and save it for another meal. (The possibilities are endless, but here are a dozen.)
Put the chicken bones in a medium pot. (I used a 3-quart pot, not my giant stockpot.) Add a teaspoon of salt and whatever aromatics you have around: an onion or other alliums, leftover leek tops, a carrot, a bay leaf, herbs or herb stems, peppercorns, ginger coins, a star anise, a celery stalk or the tops. Cover with cold water and let it all simmer for two or three hours. Or use an electric pressure cooker and let it cook at high pressure for 1 hour, or a slow cooker for 3 to 6 hours. I usually strain it after it cools because it’s easier, and put it in the freezer, where it’ll last six months. That’s it.
Roasting a chicken and making stock in one night definitely made me feel like I had accomplished something important. Dinner was pretty great, too.
This is part of a series in which Melissa Clark teaches you how to cook with pantry staples. See more.
