GLEAM TEAM
Past, present, and future collide in a season filled with precious-metal finishes.
N21 by Alessandro Dell’acqua pre-fall 2023.
Any silhouette—from a winged goddess to wired headphones—can transform when dipped in precious metal, alchemically turning the everyday into the eternal. Valdé Beauty did just that to the humble lipstick case, crafting its version from a zinc alloy coated in liquid gold. Its shape was designed to evoke the power of women, explains founder Margarita Arriagada. Meanwhile, Kim Kardashian, acting as curator and muse, convinced Dolce & Gabbana to open its archives this season, inspiring pieces like a clingy, ’50s-siren-meets-’90s diva wiggle dress. Another shiny ’90s stalwart? Jeff Koons’ Balloon Dog, to which sly homage is paid in JW Anderson’s Mylar-like twist on his Twister Bag. Coperni threw back to a more recent era, immortalizing wired headphones in sculptural jewelry, and it doesn’t get more current than the curve of a Pīferi pump. “I love a classic reimagined,” says founder and creative director Alfredo Piferi. “I wanted a light-catching 24K gold hue. It’s our golden hour!”—Rosie Jarman, fashion associate
NEW ARRIVALS
THE BAG
Celine Teen Triomphe Celine Classic Panier
Prada Natural Raffia Tote
Loewe + Paula’s Ibiza Balloon Ruffles Leather-Trimmed Raffia Shoulder Bag
THE SHOE
Aquazzura Sundance Plateau 140 Raffia Platform Sandals
Cult Gaia Cleia Platform
Miu Miu Ribbon-Detailed Buckled Macrame Ballet Flats
THE NECKLACE
Ana Khouri Jamie 18kt Gold & Diamond Pavé Ear Cuff
Fernando Jorge Petrified Wood Orbit Diamond Medium Studs
Alexander McQueen Thin Tubular Choker in Antique Gold
STONE AGE
Chunky gems such as lapis lazuli, coral, and tiger’s-eye offer distinctly ’70s glamour. We asked the designers behind the baubles to share some of the backstory.
Sauer Paisley 18K Yellow Gold Tiger’s Eye, Citrine Earrings
“We revisit the teardrop, an ancient, multi-cultural motif, and bring the emblematic Celtic, Persian, Kashmiri, and hippie pattern to the present day.”—Stephanie Wenk, Sauer creative director
Retrouvai Lapis and Emerald Talisman Pendant
“My intention with these one-of-a-kind pieces was to combine semiprecious stone slabs with a precious faceted gem. The lapis really makes the emerald come alive.”—Kirsty Stone, Retrouvai founder and designer
Haute Victoire Lapis Lazuli Fish And Shell with Amatrine Necklace
“The use of blue and orange as complementary colors creates a perfect contrasting relationship. Neither overwhelms the other, and both are in perfect balance.”—Yasmina Benazzou, Haute Victoire founder and designer
Ming Jewellery Coral, Black Diamond, and Gold Ring
“Black diamonds are so hard that light reflects off them as a white flash. This contrasts with the soft, flowing warmth of the red coral dome and the ripples of gold.”—Ming Lampson, Ming Jewellery founder and designer
Jenna Blake Nautical Lapis Ring With Diamonds
“The diamonds elevate the playfulness of color in hard stones, while the hard stones ground the diamonds, giving them a more approachable feel.”—Jenna Blake, Jenna Blake founder and designer
Sorellina Tourmaline and Tiger’s-Eye Earrings
“I look to nature when I’m assembling a palette of interesting color combinations. I really love the juxtaposition of soft pink tourmaline against bold tiger’s-eye.”—Nicole Carosella, Sorellina co-founder
