Peter Lauer Saar Riesling Brut 2020, 12.5 percent, $40
Florian Lauer, the current proprietor of this excellent German estate, makes wonderful sparkling rieslings. They are what the Europeans like to call gastronomic wines, bottles that are best served with food. I’ve had numerous Lauer sparklers, but this is one of the more unusual bottles. It’s profoundly herbal, with an aftertaste of anise. It’s also paradoxical, austere yet generous, light yet rich and intense. Altogether, a thrill. (Vom Boden, Brooklyn, N.Y.)
Schramsberg North Coast Blanc de Blancs Brut 2020, 12.6 percent, $40
Schramsberg was one of California’s modern pioneers of sparkling wine, with 1965 as its first vintage. A lot has changed in California’s sparkling wine world since then, with many small producers now making excellent wines. But Schramsberg is still going strong. This blanc de blancs, made entirely from chardonnay, is creamy, toasty, crisp and fresh.
Corte Bianca Franciacorta Essente Dossagio Zero NV, 12 percent, $48
Franciacorta in Lombardy has long been an area dominated by big companies making expensive but not particularly interesting sparkling wine. That has changed, with many smaller, distinctive producers like Corte Bianca making outstanding bottles. This is made from chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc and erbamat, a rare local grape, all farmed organically. It’s lively yet creamy and elegant, lightly floral and savory. Other Franciacorta producers I especially like include Divella, Arcari e Danesi and Cà del Vént. (Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, Vt.)
