“It’s hard not to be drawn to the authenticity of these projects,” he said. “There’s a real passion for products that are out of the grasp of large industrial companies.” But Mr. Cate acknowledges that modern craft bartenders have “asbestos palates, and they want to be shocked,” and are therefore inevitably drawn to spirits like clairin.
Mr. Teague, for instance, is already trying to develop cocktails with clairin for Amor y Amargo and the neighboring bar, Cienfuegos. “The overwhelming majority of my job is talking to people and getting them to drink new things,” he said. “With clairin, there’s definitely something new to talk about.”
Tasting Report
Rhum agricole and clairin, distilled from the juice of fresh-cut sugar cane, can be a new experience for those used to sipping molasses-based rums. Complex grassy, funky and earthy flavors are balanced by the underlying sweetness. Here is a selection of both aged and unaged examples to seek out. (All bottles are 750 milliliters.) JASON WILSON
Neisson Rhum Agricole Blanc 50 percent alcohol per volume $35
Notes of brown butter, dill and sage, with a rich, viscous texture and sweetness in the mouth. Classic unaged rum that’s perfect in cocktails. (Caribbean Spirits, Bradenton, Fla.)
Rhum J.M V.O. 43 percent $40
Three years of aging produces an amazing blend of freshness and complexity. Swirling flavors of smoked herb, smoked honey and even barbecue, with underlying minerality and finish of licorice and spice. Tastes like old-time Caribbean rum. (Spiribam, Wakefield, R.I.)
Clairin Casimir 48.3 percent $40
A funky nose of varnish, turmeric, cumin, seaweed and burned rubber. Earthy, attractive umami notes, a bittersweetness on the finish. (La Maison & Velier, New York).
Rhum Clément VSOP 40 percent $40
Four years in oak. Aromas of candle wax, fresh herbs and cut flowers. Rich, peppery, and spicy on the palate. A classic example of aged rhum agricole. (Spiribam)
