It’s a combination of an Old World cafe, an Old New York bakery and a 21st-century FOMO generator. Somehow it all works out. Servers are close at hand, observant, accommodating.
Noise Level
Loud.
Recommended Dishes
All breads; escargots; steak tartare; leeks vinaigrette; mafaldine with rabbit; half chicken; pork collar; chocolate torte; caramelized white chocolate budino. Appetizers, $6 to $28; pasta and main courses, $27 to $48.
Drinks and Wine
Classic cocktails, slightly tweaked; wines, mostly Italian and French, in both traditional and modern styles.
Price
$$$$ (very expensive)
Open
Tuesday to Sunday for dinner.
Reservations
Accepted.
Wheelchair Access
The dining room and accessible restroom are one step above the sidewalk level; a movable ramp is available, but space is tight inside.
What the Stars Mean
Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor, fair or satisfactory. One star, good. Two stars, very good. Three stars, excellent. Four stars, extraordinary.