We’ve had pizza on the brain here at The New York Times food section, ever since Brett Anderson published his excellent, deep dive into the culture of American pizza-making, along with our list of 22 of the best pizzas in the country. What are your favorites?
Making pizza at home might be a tall order in these sweltering days of summer. Unless you have an outdoor pizza oven, cranking your stove as high as it goes to get a proper crust can tax both your heat tolerance and your air-conditioning. Pizza making is on hiatus in our house until fall, or at least until I’ve mastered the tricky art of the grilled pizza (maybe with Kenji López-Alt’s help).
In the meantime, Ali Slagle’s crispy gnocchi with burst tomatoes and mozzarella gets you pizza flavors without pizza temperatures, and it’s easy to make in a skillet in under 30 minutes. You don’t even need to boil the gnocchi. Just sear them in oil until they become crisp outside and chewy within, then toss them with cherry tomatoes, red pepper flakes, basil and milky mozzarella. A quick stint under the broiler turns the cheese gooey and dappled brown in spots — just like your favorite slice, sans shvitz.
Featured Recipe
Crispy Gnocchi With Burst Tomatoes and Mozzarella
One thing I’m very comfortable grilling is chicken, especially thighs that have been marinated in garlic and yogurt to keep them juicy. My grilled za’atar chicken is full of fragrant herbs and bright lemon, and the dark meat is forgiving to cook if, say, you’re easily distracted by fireflies or fireworks. For those without a grill, the recipe works just as well under your broiler.
