Headliner
Lord’s
Ed Szymanski, the chef and an owner of Dame in Greenwich Village, is known for his fried hake and chips. But at Lord’s, his new meat-centric restaurant with Patricia Howard, his partner at Dame, those chips accompany sirloin steak with green peppercorns. Though clearly rooted in English tradition, Mr. Szymanski’s food brims with original approaches. On the opening menu are curried lamb Scotch eggs, oysters Kilpatrick with a warm brown-butter mignonette, cured trout with celeriac and dill, warm sunchokes with grilled olives and mustard, grilled mushroom kebab with lentils and egg yolks, deviled crab on toast, and duck with stuffed cabbage and parsnip. There’s also a savory pie of the day, a throwback to Mr. Szymanski’s well-received stint at Cherry Point in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, introduced here with a filling of chicken, pig’s trotter and leeks. The menu features offal, with black pudding alongside clams, a pig’s head terrine with piccalilli, and braised tripe with cipollini onions and Madeira. Mr. Szymanski and Ms. Howard do not deny the influence of the chef Fergus Henderson, the British master of nose-to-tail. The brick-walled, 60-seat dining room is fitted with a stretch of marble bar, walnut furnishings, booths and hunter green drapery accents, including around a semi-secluded enclave. The design, by Ms. Howard, hints at Arts & Crafts style, notably with a patch of William Morris wallpaper in the dining room and covering the restroom walls. The wine list leans French, though there are a few English sparklers among the 300 bottles.
506 LaGuardia Place (Bleecker Street), 929-398-5433, lordsenglish.com.
Opening
Monterey
Simon Oren, who owns a string of regional French and Middle Eastern restaurants, is cutting a broader culinary swath — Europe and America — with this substantial Midtown restaurant. The spacious dining room, the former Maloney & Porcelli (or if you’re old enough, the Gloucester House), is done in elegant contemporary style with an open kitchen, plush banquettes and a stretch of bar designed by Mr. Oren’s partners Dudi Sasson and Scott Kester. A balcony fitted with banquettes and tables extends the capacity to 200. The executive chef, James Tracey, of Mr. Sasson’s Isabelle’s Osteria, is offering an ambitious menu of smoked beef tartare, a fall harvest salad with figs and pumpkin, pork trotter and sweetbread roulade, lumache pasta with duck and goose Bolognese, roast chicken, several steaks, prime rib, and whole turbot with crawfish mousseline, serving four to six.
37 East 50th Street, 212-377-7171.
Osteria Accademia
The name is a nod to the many academic institutions throughout the Upper West Side, where this intimate Italian restaurant, lined with bookshelves, is settling in. Huseyin Ozer, the owner of Bodrum and Leyla in the neighborhood, and his new partner, Murat Akinci, brought in Massimilliano Convertini as consulting chef. He is working with Claudio Cristofoli to devise a menu said to represent various regions of Italy. (Both chefs were with Cipriani.) The bottom line is a collection of standard-bearers like vitello tonnato, eggplant Parmesan, ravioli with butter and sage, braised short ribs, and cannoli. (Opens Wednesday)
646 Amsterdam Avenue (91st Street), 212-685-0305.
Rana Fifteen
Western Turkey and the Aegean region are represented at this new spot from Ahmet Kiranbay and Armando Litiatco, the owners of the Filipino barbecue restaurant FOB Brooklyn in Cobble Hill. Seafood, including stuffed mussels, calamari with chile, and orange-glazed octopus, plus grilled meats, make up the bulk of the menu. There is a 15-dish feast, referenced in the restaurant’s name, $39 per person, minimum of two. The space is airy and whitewashed. (Thursday)
209 Fourth Avenue (Union Street), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 347-599-1525, ranafifteen.com.
