There are always a handful of designers on the radar of every editor, buyer, influencer, and fashion fanatic as the must-see shows of New York Fashion Week. One such brand is Khaite, known for the cool edge that comes with its highly covetable designs. In line, I overheard attendees murmur with excitement and anticipation, noting how the label’s popularity has undoubtedly skyrocketed since it first launched in 2016. One glance at the growing queue outside the Park Avenue Armory (which has often been a venue for Marc Jacobs’ shows in the past) would tell you that those comments were merited.
Upon entry, one could see the clear connection between the expansive room—which was nearly dark, save for the beams of light that gave guests, including Emma Roberts, Laura Harrier, Chloe Fineman, and Leon Bridges, just enough light to find their seats—and Khaite’s Soho store. With the allure of a stage before the curtains go up, it was soon obvious that everyone in attendance was settling in to see a show.
What does the cool girl want for spring 2024? According to founder and creative director Catherine Holstein, it’s clothes that toe the line between tough and fragile—clothes that also happen to be undeniably practical, as well. Staying true to the Khaite ethos, the designs that appeared on the runway were both minimal and modern. That said, Holstein also took this season as an opportunity to experiment with proportions, as well. Outerwear, which included coats and leather jackets, featured strong, broad shoulders and exaggerated lapels. They were later put into contrast with the soft fluidity of peasant shirts and dresses that ballooned in all the right places and billowed as models walked down the runway.
The collection featured a neutral color palette with pops of red along the way. Without question, these designs were meant for the woman who doesn’t think twice about whether or not she has put together an ensemble. That woman is a natural—especially when she has a wardrobe that consists of pieces like these. The theme of the show continued on in the accessories—namely the handbags. Models held a variety of sizes, ranging from oversized tote bags and duffels to boxy clutches. To this editor, that only shows how aware Holstein is of her customer’s need for versatility.