Is fonio the new quinoa? This African grain, native to the regions just south of the Sahara, has been given that label. It has a lot going for it, as Pierre Thiam, a New York chef from Senegal, explains in his elegant cookbook. Fonio is easy and fast to grow. It’s also drought-resistant, nutritious, gluten-free and better for the soil than the commodity crops like corn, wheat, soy and rice that have become Africa’s agricultural staples. Once fonio is winnowed and dried, the tiny grains (much smaller than quinoa) can be steamed and used in various ways. (Care must be taken so it doesn’t clump and get gummy, and reheating can be tricky.) The book concentrates on traditional African dishes, with ingredients like cassava, okra, baobab leaf and red palm oil. But for wider appeal, like that of quinoa, it needs more recipes like his excellent roasted salmon with cheesy fonio grits. For me, fonio is more like polenta or cream of wheat than quinoa. I have served it topped with a ragout of mushrooms and used it in meatloaf. But first you need to buy it: There’s a useful list of sources in the book.
“The Fonio Cookbook: An Ancient Grain Rediscovered” by Pierre Thiam (Lake Isle Press, $24.95).
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