Natural wines don’t easily fit as quick recommendations. They are generally made in minute quantities, which makes specific bottles hard to find.
A better way to discover the world of natural wine is through the time-honored practice of shopping by importer. Some importers specialize in natural wines, but many offer blended portfolios. (Also, seeking out importers won’t lead you to American producers, unless they are distributors as well.)
Here are five importers that specialize in natural wines, though not always by strict definition. You will also find many selections among the portfolios of established sellers like Louis/Dressner Selections and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, which sought out natural wines before the term was coined.
Jenny & François Selections Longtime proponents with a worldwide portfolio.
José Pastor Selections Specializing in Iberian wines, though not all fit the natural category.
Selection Massale Mostly focused on France, with toes dipped into Italy, Germany and elsewhere.
Tess Bryant SelectionsSmall portfolio of fine Australian wines.
Zev Rovine Selections Excellent, wide-ranging portfolio.
If you are looking for American natural wines, here are five producers to keep in mind:
AmByth Estate Beautiful, risk-taking wines from Paso Robles, Calif.
Donkey & Goat California wines that satisfy and surprise.
Hiyu Astounding, unorthodox and delicious bottles, from Oregon.
La Garagista Wines from Vermont that challenge expectations.
Vinca Minor Lovely wines from Northern California.
Talking Natural Wine
Any discussion of natural wine is likely to include jargon. Here are seven terms to know.
Biodynamic agriculture
Similar to organic farming, in which the aim is to create a self-sustaining, self-regulating habitat. Biodynamically grown grapes are used in all genres of wine, not just natural ones.
Brutal technologies
Referring to modern machines that can change the nature of a wine, rather than simple, labor-saving devices that mimic traditional practices.
Mousiness
A flaw specific to some wines made without added sulfur dioxide, a preservative. It can be sensed only retronasally (after swallowing) and is reminiscent of the smell of a mouse cage.
Orange wine
A white wine made with the techniques used for red wines, in which the juice is macerated with the pigment-bearing skins. Also called amber wine or skin-contact wine. Not all orange wines are natural wines, and vice versa.
Oxidative
Used to describe a wine that is intentionally exposed to oxygen during production, which can add a specific character. Oxidative wines differ from oxidized wines, which are spoiled by exposure to air. The entire spectrum of wine includes oxidative examples.
Regenerative agriculture
A holistic method that views a farm as part of a larger ecosystem, with special emphasis on strengthening the health of the soil and increasing the natural biodiversity.
Sulfur dioxide
A preservative and antioxidant used almost universally in wine production, and the most contentious issue among natural wine producers. Some adamantly oppose its use, while others tolerate a small amount at bottling.
