In fashion, the next thing is the best thing. But the backbone of the Swiss watch industry is heritage, which explains why vintage reissues make up the bulk of new releases. What’s tried and true becomes new again with fresh materials and state-of-the-art movements. Think of it not as a rehash, but as a continuation of a great idea.
Most of the obvious icons have by now been revived and ushered into the 21st century — the Rolex Daytona, Zenith El Primero, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, TAG Heuer Glassbox Carrera and more. But there are still tantalizing relics of the past just waiting to be revamped.
We asked five collectors what vintage or discontinued piece they would most like to see resurrected, and they had no trouble coming up with candidates.
They did, however, struggle to narrow it down to just one. In the end, they all chose pieces from elite makers that are either hard to find (in good condition) or have become priced out of reach in their original form. All are classic enough that they would feel fresh if introduced today. Two of the choices were designed by Gerald Genta, the celebrated maestro of midcentury watches, which proves that good design lasts forever. Their responses have been edited and condensed.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic
Gary Getz, a California business consultant, eclectic-watch aficionado and journalist:
“My choice is a reference I own in its original vintage form: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic (a mash-up of “Future” and “Automatic). It was launched in the 1950s, when the future was viewed with optimism, and design reflected a buoyant perspective, with streamlined forms and crisp markings.