Grilling season sneaked up on me. Usually, if I haven’t uncovered the grill by April, I’m counting down to the first sunny day, fantasizing about the all the rare burgers, bronzed chickens and charred eggplants my near future will hold.
But this spring has been so bleak and damp that I was still making lentil soup until about a week ago. When the forecast did finally shift, I acted fast. I wanted to be outside on that first sunny day, wielding my tongs as a marinated hunk of pork blistered fragrantly over the coals.
I chose pork to kick off the season because, other than toasted sourdough and the scent of bacon mingling with coffee, is there any better aroma than sizzling pork fat over the flames?
Cracked whole spices and garlic flavor the meat all the way through.CreditDavid Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
This is true whether you’re lighting the grill for the first time after a long, drizzly spring, or you live in a state of perpetual sunshine, taking your grill for granted. Barbecue pork is always sublime.
[For more on grilling, check out our How to Grill guide.]
It’s even better when you have time to season the pork ahead. Here, I rub the meat down with a paste of cracked whole spices (fennel, caraway, cumin, coriander, peppercorns and red-pepper flakes) mixed with garlic and salt. The salt helps the spices and garlic infuse the meat, flavoring it all the way through. Even a few hours makes a huge difference, though the longer you let the meat marinate, the more flavorful it will become.
You can use this spice rub on any cut of pork, but a butterflied hunk, either shoulder or loin, will be large enough to feed a crowd. Of the two, I slightly prefer the shoulder. Shot through with connective tissue, it can be ungainly to work with (feel free to cut it into pieces so it’s easier to maneuver on the grill). But the flavor is rich and brawny, with a pleasingly chewy texture and a springiness to the fat when you don’t overcook it. That said, the loin is more elegant — neater to slice and softer to eat. You could even use tenderloins if you keep them whole and grill the lean meat hot and fast, until singed but still juicy.
I love to pair grilled pork with garlic bread, which is both rich from the butter and fresh from the herbs. But a handful of basil and parsley leaves strewn on top is a lighter, more summery option — for when summer finally arrives.
