Licorice is a favorite flavor in Scandinavian countries; unless you belong to the cohort that cannot bear it, you should keep it in mind as you explore Nordic cuisines. In Denmark, Johan Bulow is a confectioner who has achieved some renown for his Lakrids. His products start with fresh licorice root that he sweetens and seasons with chocolate, sea salt, coffee, passion fruit, chiles or the juices of currants, cranberries, strawberries or cherries. The little spheres burst with flavor.
Lakrids by Bülow, 5.29 to 12.7 ounces, $10 to $20 depending on the flavor, Chelsea Market Baskets, Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Avenue (15th Street), 888-727-7887, chelseamarketbasket.com, lakridsbybulow.com.
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