Despite gridlocked traffic and huge houses, the East End of Long Island is still farm country, as it has been for centuries, with fields of corn, seasonal produce stands and, more recently, wineries. But cheesemakers are in short supply, so the fine cheeses that Art Ludlow and his sons, Peter and John, produce at Mecox Bay Dairy are all the more precious. The assorted cheeses are all made with raw milk from Jersey cows. Of particular note are Atlantic Mist, a soft-ripening Camembert-style that becomes creamier as it matures, and Mecox Sunrise, an assertive washed-rind cheese, with a firm but satiny texture and some sweetness in the aftertaste. Other Mecox cheeses include Cheddar, ricotta, a Stilton-style blue and Sigit, an aged Alpine cheese from an area without a mountain in sight. Some are now sold online.
Mecox Bay Dairy, 855 Mecox Road (Halsey Lane), Bridgehampton, N.Y., 631-537-9335, mecoxbaydairy.com.
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