In steamy weather, I loved eating the vibrant Thai food at Pok Pok NY during its time in Brooklyn. The restaurant from the chef Andy Ricker, of Portland, Ore., is now closed, so I’m lighting my stove for the recipes in his new cookbook. It’s not exclusively Thai and includes soups and stir-fries like phat si ew wun sen with glass noodles, soy sauce, pork and Chinese broccoli, now in my repertoire. Recipes for fried rice, salads with noodles, sauces and drinks also fill the brightly photographed pages. Some of the essentials, like fresh pandan leaves and beef tendon, are not always readily available, even online, so scrutinize what’s required with care. The recipes involve nine kinds of noodles; most are easily found, so it’s not necessary to make your rice vermicelli from scratch — though with this cookbook you can.
“Pok Pok Noodles: Recipes From Thailand and Beyond” by Andy Ricker with JJ Goode (Ten Speed Press, $35).
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